Our Process for Getting A Puppy!

 When puppies go to their new home they are CURRENT on vaccinations, dewormings and health care, but will need MORE vaccinations, dewormings and vet care as they get older. 

This includes adults, who will continue to need yearly rabies and booster vaccinations, as well as heartworm prevention and regular deworming. Usually, heartworm prevention is given monthly or every 3 months. Puppies 14 weeks old or older will have finished their puppy shots, however, they will still need boosters and yearly rabies.

The vaccinations that puppies receive while here with us are not enough to fully protect them against deadly diseases such as parvo and distemper. It is very important that they are scheduled with your vet for their remaining vaccinations. We ask that puppies be seen by your vet within a week of arriving in their new home. If you receive your puppy at 10 weeks old, then they will need more shots in ONE to TWO weeks. When receiving a puppy, you will receive their shot records as well. Your vet will be able to tell you what shots they need as they grow based on their current vaccinations. 

“According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), puppies should be vaccinated every two to four weeks between the ages of 6 and 16 weeks with the final puppy vaccines given no earlier than 16 weeks of age. All puppies should receive the core vaccines of canine distemper, adenovirus 2, canine parvovirus, parainfluenzavirus, and rabies virus."

 Our puppies are currently being fed Nutrisource brand puppy food. Sometimes, transitioning to a new home can be stressful and make your small-breed puppy not want to eat well. Make sure your puppy does not lose weight after they go home. Loosing weight can make them susceptible to hypoglycemia and coccidia, which can be life-threatening in some cases. It is best to encourage them to eat with canned food. To transition them from our brand of food to the brand that you use, it is best to mix the brands together and/or with canned food so that the puppy gets both brands for the first few days. This will make the transition between brands not as difficult on their stomach. I also recommend using pro-biotic supplements on their food occasionally. Purina Pro Plan's FortiFlora is an excellent one to buy. 

You will want to choose a brand of food that is specific for small breed puppies. The brand of food you choose should have a list of ingredients as well as instructions on when to switch your puppy to adult food. High-protein diets with vegetables are best for your puppy. Some ingredients, such as peas and corn, are not great for them. Carrots, rice, and Chicken or Beef are about the best ingredients for your puppy. It is best to choose a dry food for your puppy, as only eating wet foods may rot out their teeth. It is however okay to feed them wet foods in addition to a dry food based diet. Whenever you first bring your puppy home, they may be hesitant to eat. While they are a puppy, it is okay to keep them on only wet food until they start being more receptive to eating dry food. However, do not leave them on wet food their entire life- and if their primary diet is wet food, it may be a good idea to consider giving them hard toys or chewies to chew on to keep their teeth clean and strong. Things such as occasional greenies, hard toys, bones, or rawhides (under supervision) to chew on will help keep your puppy’s teeth healthy. 

We like to avoid generic or extremely cheap food brands for our dogs. Name brand foods with good reviews will always be safer, as just a label of ingredients is not always enough to tell you about the quality or consistency of the food. Do not give your puppy an excessive amount of treats or human food as well. This may upset their stomach. It is best to avoid most treats and human foods for the first few weeks they are home. The stress of travelling to a new home may cause your puppy to have loose stools, and a balanced, healthy diet to start them off with will help to settle their stomach a lot. If your puppy is a younger puppy, (8-9 weeks) we recommend that food be available at all times for the first few days until your puppy has adjusted to their new home and family. Then, you may offer food to young puppies three times a day. After ten or twelve weeks of age, feed twice a day.

Even adult dogs should at least be fed twice a day. When fed once a day dogs become overly hungry and are more likely to overeat at mealtime. Let your puppy eat as much as they want in fifteen minutes and then pick up the food dish. Having food continually available for older puppies or adults can encourage overeating, and chubby puppies are more likely to have hip dysplasia and weight problems later in life. Every dog is different, however. If you notice your dog gaining too much weight, then it might be best to split their food up into mealtimes.

 Dachshunds are a relatively easy breed to keep groomed and maintained. They do not need much more than a simple brushing and a bath every once and a while/as needed. However, it is generally a good practice to brush them gently once or twice a week to keep them clean and their coats looking shiny. Daschunds have thin, sensitive skin, so if they are short-coated, you will want to use a soft brush. Harsh wire brushes may cut their skin. Some owners may decide to bring their dachshund to a groomer once or twice a month. Some groomers may shave the chest or paws of your dachshund to keep their coat looking to the breed’s standard. It is up to you to decide what you want your dachshund’s coat to look like and how frequently you groom them, and how you groom them. 

Long-coated dachshunds may need some extra maintenance compared to smooth-coated dachshunds. I recommend simply brushing them out once a week and bathing as needed. If you so choose, you can trim them with trimmers or scissors to keep their hair from getting too long or tangled.

Thicker-haired long coated dachshunds will often get matts behind their ears, under their tails, on their chest, or in the creases between their body and their legs. Sometimes, these matts can just be cut out. If you wish to preserve their hair, then cut the matt a few times up and down (instead of cutting it off at the base), with the tip of the scissors almost touching your dog’s skin. Make sure to not cut your dog’s skin. Now, after cutting through the matt once or twice depending on size, you can use a wire brush to brush it out. If need be, you can cut through it again and then brush again. Your dog may still lose a bit of hair, but should keep most of their fringe using this method.

You should keep your dog’s nails trimmed. Long nails may cause your dog to walk improperly and cause them pain and potential joint issues. Being a small breed, it should be easy to pick up your dachshund to trim or bevel their nails. It is best to pick them up off of the ground entirely whenever you trim their nails. Not having something to push against with their feet, such as a floor or table, will encourage them to stay still during the process. If they behave well, give them a treat and praise afterwards to encourage that behaviour. Give them lots of praise beforehand as well to associate trimming nails with a positive experience. Some dogs who do not like having their nails trimmed may try to bite when you do so. If this is the case, then it may be a good idea to invest in a muzzle. Dachshunds are a small breed, and if they become mouthy while trimming their nails, you may be able to simply hold their mouth shut during the process. Do not reward the dog for bad behaviour. Do not cut your dog’s nails past the kwik, which is usually darker than the rest of the nail. Doing so may cause their nails to bleed. 

Keeping your dachshund groomed regularly will help to keep them clean, happy, and healthy!

 Giardia is a very tiny parasite that can infect dogs. Giardia is found in nature; in grass, on trees, in dirt, and in and on animals. Oftentimes, your puppy may develop Giardia after you bring them home. 

While it can be scary if your puppy is diagnosed with Giardia, especially if you are a first-time puppy owner, it is actually a very common diagnosis. Dachshund puppies are especially susceptible to not only getting Giardia, but to being affected by it in serious ways. Oftentimes, Giardia will show itself as nothing but a few loose stools. Other times, especially with the added stress of going to a new home, Giardia can present itself as bloody stools, a loss of appetite, and lethargy. 

The good news is that Giardia is very easy to treat! If you suspect that your puppy has Giardia, then simply take your puppy to see your vet, and they will help you treat it with oral medicine. The symptoms of Giardia usually go away in just a few days. In the meantime, make sure your puppy eats and drinks plenty. 

While your puppy is here with us, they are regularly given a Giardia preventative. However, no medicine can 100% prevent Giardia, and so we cannot guarantee that your dachshund puppy will not have or develop Giardia after you bring him home. Your puppy may get Giardia from playing outside in your yard, from other household pets, from dirty water, or from outdoor walks. While with your breeder, your puppy may get Giardia from their parents or littermates, who may have picked it up whenever they go outside to potty or to play. 

It is important to keep in mind that your breeder prevents Giardia to the best of their ability. All of your breeder’s dogs are given regular Giardia preventive, and their home is sanitised daily. Some breeders may even choose to sanitise their play yards, although in some areas, this can be bad for the environment. 

The only way to 100% prevent Giardia is to never let your puppy on the floor outside or inside, and to never let your puppy be in contact with other animals. This means no more walks, no more playing with the other dogs, and you can just forget about teaching your puppy to go potty outside! For most people, this is just not a realistic possibility. Instead, you and your breeder both must take the risk of your puppy getting Giardia in order to exercise, socialise, and entertain your puppy. 

Although Giardia is annoying, and in some cases can be scary for you and your puppy, it is important to keep in mind that it is very common, it is easily treatable, and it is impossible to completely prevent. 

 Enrichment tools are tools- usually toys, but sometimes appliances, treats, exercises, activities, or even sounds- that help to socialise, enrich, and fulfill your dogs' lives. Anyone can use enrichment tools or follow an enrichment program for their pets (and not just dogs), but enrichment is especially important for those of us that own a lot of pets- such as rescues or breeders, for those of us that are at work or busy for most of the day, and those of us that have high-energy pups. I always recommend using some sort of enrichment for your dog, as it makes their life more enjoyable and can help with getting their energy out. Enriching your dogs' lives can be very easy and cheap, even if you have a lot of them!

Some basic, easy, and cheap forms of enrichment can simply include:

-Going on daily walks

-Letting your dog sniff new things

-Letting your dog pee on things

-Letting your dog roll in smelly things sometimes

-Allowing your dog time to bark or howl

-Giving chewies, chewy bones, or occasional treats

-Lick mats/pads

-Hiding treats in toys

-Dog puzzles, homemade or store-bought

-Spending time with your dog through grooming or brushing them

-Basic training for about 5 minutes a day (Sit, Come, Lay Down)

-Nature TV or TV programs made for dogs

-Listening to music, podcasts, or TV regularly

-Car rides

-Park visits (although not necessarily dog parks!)

-Taking your ADULT dog to public areas, hiking trails, or stores

-Tug of war, tag, playfighting, game of chase, fetch, etc

-Kiddie pool, sprinkler, or hose play

-Trying new snacks or toys, such as giving them frozen peanut butter, baked peanut butter, ice chunks, treats hidden in ice chunks, raw pumpkins, raw bones or boiled meat (NEVER cooked bones), deer antlers/sheds, animal hides, etc.

Be careful when trying new treats, foods, chewies or toys! Not everything is safe for dogs, and dogs need to be monitored when playing with most toys or hard chewies so that they do not choke.

For more costly forms of enrichment, some breeders and rescues will:

-Install a 'play yard' in which dogs can play outside of the kennel every day

-Create agility courses for more active dogs

-Put lots of big toys, kiddie playgrounds, slides, or ramps in their kennel for the dogs to have everyday access to

-Use tools such as flirt poles, tug of war ropes, or even manual (dog-run) treadmills for working dogs

-Participate in sports such as sniff work, bite work, weight or sled pulling, agility, water diving, retrieving, or even hunting/tracking

-Participate in AKC training courses or conformation showing

-Professional training for activities such as search and rescue, police work, or therapy dog

Even these 'costlier' forms of enrichment can be simplified and made cheap. For example, a simple game of tug and war can mimic a flirt pole decently well, a splash in the local creek or in a kiddie pool can be an alternative to water sports, and a trip to the park or run in the backyard can simulate a play yard. 

Just remember that every dog is different. Dachshunds, for example, may not like water or snow/ice much, but they love to chase and play tag or tug of war. Many dachshunds also enjoy digging, crawling through fabric tunnels, and sniff work! It is up to you as a dog owner to know what your dog needs and what they enjoy most, and to encourage them to be active, happy, and fulfilled by providing a stimulating and rewarding environment. Don't be afraid to try new things or mix things up, especially for puppies. By providing an array of new- but not overwhelming- experiences for your puppy, you are helping to socialise them, which aides in training and development, and can prevent issues such as separation anxiety down the road.

I would also recommend doing further research if you decide to pursue an enrichment program!

 Whenever you receive a puppy, the first and foremost most important thing is to ensure that the puppy eats well the first few days you have it. Small breed dogs, especially puppies, are very susceptible to life-threatening issues when missing a meal. Even missing just one meal can allow Hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar, to set in. This usually affects puppies up to 4 months of age. When a puppy has low blood sugar, their body does not produce much energy, leaving them lethargic. This leads to a quickly setting loss of appetite, and before you know it, the puppy refuses to eat at all. 

Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress.  Many puppies are lost needlessly to hypoglycemia because of ignorance on the part of their owner or a veterinarian.

The first sign of hypoglycemia is the puppy slowing down and then acting lethargic or still.  The puppy will then begin to tremble or shiver. This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose. The trembling is followed by a blank stare and the puppy lying on their side. The puppy may also experience convulsions. After a time, the puppy will become comatose. Their body will be limp, lifeless and the tongue and gums will be a grayish/blue color. The body temperature will be subnormal. The puppy may even appear to be dead.

If caught in the early stages, treatment is simple. Rub Nutri-cal (Caro Syrup will do if you do not have Nutri-Cal) on the puppy’s gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth.  (Caution: do not use honey.)  Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body temperature.  If the puppy responds, all is well.  Feed a quality canned food right away (you may want to mix with egg yolk) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur.  Be sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible. 

If caught in the more advanced stages, treatment is more complicated.  Always assume the puppy is alive.  Rub Nutri-cal (Caro Syrup will do if you do not have Nutri-Cal) on the puppy’s gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth and carefully insert a small amount in the rectum. (Caution: do not use honey.) Slowly warm the puppy to proper body temperature (101-102F) and keep him warm continuously with light heat. If the puppy still does not respond, call your veterinarian and inform him you have a hypoglycemic puppy.  He will advise you on further instructions.  Request a fecal exam.  Your puppy may have intestinal parasites such as worms, coccidian, or giardia that need to be eliminated immediately.  A bacterial or viral infection may also be present and antibiotic treatment necessary.  If your puppy has been given glucose injections, it is probably a good idea to treat him with antibiotics so that infection does not occur.  Your vet will likely recommend a prescription canned food to give as your puppy recovers.  You must also keep the puppy warm at all times.  As your puppy improves he will begin to eat in his own and then you can gradually phase back in his regular food.

It is important to understand that just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia; it does not mean that the puppy is truly “hypoglycemic.”  True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the pancreas.  Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction to stress.  

Hypoglycemic incidents are almost always preceded by a stress of some kind.  Some examples of common stresses include: weaning, teething, vaccinations, a change of environment, shipping, over-handling, cold temperatures, intestinal parasites, infections, anorexia, etc.  Many puppies simply play too hard and stress their system or forget to eat. I have heard of males experiencing hypoglycemia when a female in heat is around.  They become so worked up over the female that they do not eat and their blood sugar drops.

The best way to protect your dog from hypoglycemia is to prevent it in the first place. Here are some things to try:

- Do not disturb your puppy. As much as you may want to play with them as soon as you get them, it is best to let them settle in in a crate with fresh food and water available for the first few hours at least. If you disturb them, you will distract them from eating. Ensure they get plenty of undisturbed crate time where they are able to eat and drink the first few days until they settle in to your household and routine.

- Put a blanket over their crate. When giving your puppy time to eat in their crate, they may be distracted by the household. Placing a blanket over the crate to hide their view will sometimes help settle them. 

- Slowly transition your puppy to their new food. While with me, your puppy will be on Nutrisource brand puppy food. To get them used to a new brand of food, it is best to mix the brands for the first few days so that the puppy receives both. 

- Offer safe raw, wet, or canned food the first few days. This entices them to eat even if they are nervous in their new home. 

If your new puppy is refusing to eat, here are some things you can try:

- Offer a food brand they are familiar with 

- Offer a better quality food brand

- Offer types of canned food

- Offer buttermilk 

- You may mix canned food, dry food, and/or buttermilk to see what they are willing to eat

- Give your puppy probiotics

- Give your puppy sugary and nutritional mixes made for dogs, such as Nutri-Cal or Caro Syrup, to get them feeling good enough to eat 

- Encourage your puppy to eat by rewarding them when they do so

- Do not disturb your puppy when they are eating or drinking

Do not forget to consult your vet if your puppy crashes, skips a meal, or becomes lethargic.

 Intervertebral Disc Disease, or IVDD, is a very common condition that over 25% of dachshunds develop. This occurs whenever a dachshund slips a spinal disc, leading to severe pain, mobility issues, and even paralysis or death. But in most cases, it is fairly mild and can present itself as only a bit of discomfort, and can occur later in life.

Unfortunately, IVDD is an integral part of the dachshund breed, and most breeds which have short legs, known as dwarfism. But we hope to change that.

There are several causes related to IVDD. One that owners should all be aware of is environment. Spinal injuries can cause IVDD in an otherwise healthy dachshund. It's been recommended to limit a dog's mobility (don't let them jump on the couch, don't let them run at full speeds, etc) to help prevent IVDD, but with limiting activity, your dog is prone to obesity and muscle atrophy. Instead, allow your dachshund to exercise moderately and consistently to build good muscle tone to help support their long back. This means a dachshund used to being in an apartment all day shouldn't go out and run a marathon at random; and dachshunds that work or participate in sports shouldn't randomly stop being active and sitting around an apartment all day. Randomly stopping or starting large amounts of activity will put more strain on your dachshund's spine and muscles.

Weight is also a huge factor for your dog's risk of IVDD. Dachshunds which are overweight are at a much higher risk for developing leg and spinal problems, including IVDD, than dogs that are at a healthy or fit weight. Your dachshund's diet may also be a factor. Consider adding natural glucosamine and chondroitin to your dachshund's diet for benefit to their back.

Spaying and Neutering is also a massive risk factor. A dachshund which is neutered before 2 years of age is dramatically at a higher risk for developing IVDD than a dog which is not neutered. We always recommend postponing spaying and neutering your dachshund for as long as reasonably possible, and to always wait until at minimum one year of age.

However, IVDD can also be genetic and inherited, even with perfect environmental conditions.

95% of dachshunds, according to EMBARK, have one or more copies of the gene associated with IVDD. However, a dachshund with no copies of the gene may still develop IVDD; and a dachshund with two copies may just as easily never develop it. For this reason, genetic testing for IVDD and CDDY alone is not enough to eliminate IVDD from the breed, and two copies of IVDD is not a reason to stop breeding a dog unless that dog actually develops the condition.

Another form of testing for IVDD is to X-Ray your dachshund's spine and have the vet count the number of calcifications in their spine. This method is very accurate, and fewer calcifications means there is much less risk of IVDD. Unfortunately, this method is not very well known, and it is very difficult to find a professional who can accurately score a dachshund's spine in the United States.

There is another very large genetic factor into preventing IVDD, and that is conformation. While we will always support dog fanciers and our fellow show breeders, there is no doubt some problems relating to the current American breed standard for Dachshunds. The standard was created with the intention for the dachshund to work; that is, digging holes and climbing into burrows to catch and kill mice, rats, badgers, and other vermin. However, today, dachshunds are not used for work. They are just companions. 

During work, dachshund's short legs were an aide to being able to burrow into holes to catch vermin. Today, however, their short legs can be a serious disadvantage and health risk. There are other parts of the breed standard which are important for a dachshund; a strong chest and ribcage helps support their long spine, and their backs should be straight and well muscled. However, American dachshunds often have incredibly short legs, especially when compared to other countries. 

You may notice many of our dachshunds have taller legs, even the ones that we show. While this isn't correct to their breed standard, taller legs are better for the breed's health. Studies have shown linkage between IVDD and legs which are very short, versus legs that are a bit taller.

(https://www.dachshund-ivdd.uk/what-is-ivdd/dachshund-conformation/)

 Sterilising your dog has both cons and benefits. You should consider both sides and consult your vet before making a decision. 

There are multiple types of sterilisation. The most common type is a procedure preformed by veterinarians in which your dog’s reproductive system is surgically removed, which is called spaying or neutering, or castrating. 

Spaying or neutering a dog under a year of age can be detrimental to their health and development. Early spay or neuter may increase risk of multiple types of cancers, including deadly osteosarcoma, increase risks of numerous defects such as hip dysplasia, abnormal bone growth, obesity, and joint disease, may cause behavioural changes such as increased aggression, laziness, dog or sound reactivity, anxiety, or destructive behaviours, and can take several years off of your dog’s lifespan. Sterilising your dog will change their hormones in a permanent way, leading to a weakened immune system and weight gain as well. The process of spaying and neutering a dog can be traumatic for them, and anesthesia, in rare cases, can have permanent, negative effects on the nervous system or brain of your dog. In some cases, this can lead to seizures, outbursts of destruction and aggression, or confusing/unexplainable behaviours, such as fly biting, constant tail chasing, or purposeful self-harm. All of these negative affects are even more likely to occur and become more severe whenever your dachshund is spayed or neutered before they are 18 months of age. Due to a dachshund’s long, unique body shape, they can have complications with spaying and neutering that other dog breeds do not have. For this reason, it is recommended by most vets to wait until they are 18 months old to spay or neuter. For all dog breeds, I recommend to wait until at least 12 months to fix your dog, but some veterinarians will say that only 6 months or older is safe. It depends largely on your dog, your vet, and the procedure you choose to do. Dogs will hit puberty at 5-8 months of age. My contract states that my puppies must be 12 months or older before being spayed or neutered. This is for their health benefit. However, with dachshunds, I would recommend leaving them intact as long as possible, as spaying and neutering significantly increases a dachshund's risk for developing IVDD.

Despite all of the cons, sterilising your dog also has many benefits. It prevents accidental litters, false pregnancy, mammary/testicular cancers, mastitis, and many types of infections. It can also lead to positive behavioural changes. Males who are neutered are much less likely to hike in the house or fight with other dogs, and sterilised dogs can also be more friendly towards other dogs and people and be less likely to run away from home. Spaying your girl will also prevent her from bleeding and developing problems from being in heat without being bred. Having a spay or neuter surgery on your dog is also not the only option whenever it comes to sterilisation. 

One option may be a chip or castration implant for male dogs. Castration implants mimic the effects of a neutered male without having to actually neuter your dog. The implant contains a hormone, deslorelin, which dramatically drops testosterone levels and prevents your dog from producing sperm. This form of sterilisation is temporary, non-invasive, and reversible. The chip is implanted in the same way a microchip is implanted (with a needle beneath the skin, much like a vaccination), and lasts either 6 months or 12 months, depending on the size chosen. The implant will stop your male dog from hiking or marking in the house with urine, being temperamental with other intact dogs, and running away from home in search of a mate. It will also temporarily sterilise him so that he cannot reproduce. Once the 6 or 12 months is up, if the chip is not replaced, then your male dog will become fertile again and back to his original, intact behaviours. 

Another option for male dogs may be to preform a vasectomy instead of a full neuter. With a vasectomy, your dog’s testes will not be removed. Instead, the tube that carries sperm during insemination will be severed. This surgery is much more delicate and takes longer than a neuter, however it will allow your male dog to keep his beneficial reproductive hormones while not being able to reproduce. On the other hand, however, a vasectomy can not prevent testicular cancer like a surgical neuter would.

An alternative option for female dogs may be to do a partial spay/hysterectomy. Whenever a female is spayed, her ovaries, uterus, and cervix are removed. In a partial spay, only her uterus and cervix are removed, leaving her ovaries intact. This will allow her to retain some of her beneficial reproductive hormones while still being sterilised and unable to reproduce. It is essentially a healthier form of spaying. 

In addition, female dogs can also have their tubes tied much like people can, which is called a tubal ligation and is less invasive than a spay surgery. A female dog that has had her tubes tied will still undergo heat cycles and maintain her beneficial reproductive hormones but will not be able to reproduce with 99% effectiveness. Unlike a full or partial spay, however, having a tubal ligation will not prevent pyometra in your dog, which is a serious infection of the womb. It also will not likely change your dog’s behaviour or temperament, and it will not prevent the types of mammary or reproductive cancers and infections that a full spay or partial spay may prevent. 

Whenever it comes down to it, it is up to you whether or not you sterilise your dog and how you do it. Research the breed of dog that you have and consult your vet before making an appointment.

 Miniature Dachshunds are a small breed of dog with small bladders, even as adults. Housebreaking can be difficult, but it is never impossible.

A good start to potty training your puppy will begin with crate training. When coming to a new home, a puppy is unaware of your rules and your schedule. Be patient with the puppy while they learn. They may have accidents especially the first few nights while home. A good preventative to this the is to keep them in a mostly confined or smaller area for the first week or two (crate, playpen, or keep them in one room with you instead of letting them wander the entire house). Obviously, do not leave them in a crate or otherwise very small space 24/7 whenever they come home, but unless they are actively being watched, played with, or resting, then it may be best to give them a bit more crate / playpen time than you do your other or older dogs. Leaving them in a smaller space will make them less likely to have an accident. Dogs naturally will try to stay clean, and thus are not likely to have accidents in the same area that they live or sleep. This is why most dogs, if they have an accident in the house, will have it in the same spot repeatedly, usually away from the areas that they spend most of their time. 

If your puppy does have an accident, it is important to remember that dogs communicate differently than we people do. We often hear of people rubbing their dog’s noses in it and telling them “no”- but your puppy has no idea what “no” means! They also have no idea why you are showing them their accident. The best method of training is to redirect and reward. You should consider yourself a teacher and your puppy a student. 

If you catch your puppy WHILE they are pottying on the floor, then immediately pick them up and move them to where you’d like them to potty at. If you do this during the act then they will learn that they are not supposed to potty in the spot that they had chosen, and instead should potty where you move them to (outside, on puppy pads, etc). Whenever they potty in a correct location, praise them lots and make them excited about it! Positive reinforcement will always teach them well. Dogs already get positive reinforcement from themselves whenever they go potty, because it is relieving or can feel good especially if they have been holding it for a while. Inadvertently, your dog can train itself to have accidents in the house in this way. It is important that you reward your dog a lot whenever they have accidents in the correct area to “override” the positive reinforcement they would usually get from pottying anywhere else. 

Most dachshunds are highly treat and praise motivated, so try giving your dog a treat and petting them a lot whenever they go potty in the correct area. It may take a while for your dog to learn exactly what they are getting rewarded for, which is where light negative reinforcement can also be beneficial. Negative reinforcement can look like picking your dog up whenever they are pottying, lightly tapping them on their nose or haunches, spraying them with a water bottle, or talking to them in a loud or stern voice (but not 'yelling' or getting angry). Dogs are very intuitive and although they do not understand, “no,” they CAN understand that a loud or stern tone of voice means that they’ve done something wrong. While some might think this is mean, scolding can be an effective way to communicate with your dog as long as you are gentle about it and as long as you are ALSO rewarding your dog whenever they do something correctly. Consistently rewarding and lightly scolding your dog for the first few weeks that they are home is important to set good habits for the future. 

You should only scold your dog if they are ACTIVELY in the process of doing something wrong. If you scold your dog afterwards, then they may not understand what they are being scolded for. It is also important to remember that your dog’s crate is their safe space and should never be used as a punishment. You should never hit your dog in a way that hurts them. Gently tapping their nose or haunches with your fingers can inform them that they’ve done something wrong without scaring them and without hurting them. Think of yourself as a mama dog that growls lightly at your puppies whenever they are misbehaving. This is how dogs communicate with one another. Negative reinforcement should only be used as a form of communicating with your dog- NOT as a form of punishment and NEVER out of anger. All dogs are different. Some may respond really well to negative reinforcement, while others may not. It will be up to you to decide what is best and most effective for your dog. 

The goal with using negative reinforcement is to let your dog understand that something they did is wrong without hurting or scaring them. Although we hate our little pooches to feel guilty after doing something wrong, guilt is an important motivator and a good learning tool which will prevent them from doing it again. Communicating with your dog in a gentle way that they can still understand is very important. Dogs are not people and need to be taught in a different way than people do. 

When taking your puppy outside to potty, you may want to use a paper towel with their scent on it to teach them where they should go. For example, if your puppy has an accident in the house, then take the paper towel you use to clean it up and place it where you want him to go instead. This way, the puppy will smell it and it will encourage them to potty there. 

Your puppy will need to be given an opportunity to go potty right after eating or drinking, first thing in the morning, after naps or upon waking up, and before bed at night, as well as periodically throughout the day. Some puppies may whine, dance, sniff around, scratch at the door or at the floor, or bark to alert you that they need to go. Other puppies may stay silent. It is best not to wait or rely on your new puppy to always alert you whenever they need to be let out. However, if they let you know that they need let out, you can definitely reward this behaviour by taking them out as soon as you notice it. Some people will even put jingle bells on their doorknobs for their dogs to ring whenever they want out. It is all about praising your dog for doing right and redirecting them whenever they do wrong. 

If your dog is having frequent accidents, it may be a sign that they are not being let outside often enough, or are eating / drinking too much or too close to a certain time, or it may even be a sign of a UTI. For example, letting your puppy eat or drink a lot right before bed may make them have accidents in the night. It is best to take them out before bed and after every meal. 

When cleaning up an accident, use powerfully scented disinfectant and cleaner. It is important that the puppy cannot smell the accident after it has been cleaned up- remember, a dog’s nose is much more powerful than ours, so even if you cannot smell an accident, the puppy may still be able to. If your puppy smells where they or another pet have had a previous accident, then they may feel inclined to toilet there again. 

Even adult dogs do this, often known as marking. Intact adult dogs may hike or scent-mark, which means that they might pee in the house even if they don’t have to go. If you intend to keep your male intact, then it may be best to buy a belly band or male wrap to keep him from hiking and peeing on furniture. Otherwise, make sure to redirect this behaviour any time you see it, and get him neutered soon. Intact females may also mark in the house, but it is less likely and usually only occurs if another dog marks first. Males are also be more likely to mark if another dog does first, or if a strange or unfamiliar dog enters the home, especially if the strange dog is also intact. Intact adult dogs may see unfamiliar dogs as competition for their house/territory, causing them to mark or have accidents more often. To prevent this and other behavioural problems, crate your intact dogs while other dogs are over.

 Crate training is a beneficial thing to your puppy. It will keep your puppy safe from chewing things like electrical cords and your new shoes when you cannot be around to supervise. It will prevent accidents from happening. It can be considered the same as a playpen for a baby. It is also an invaluable tool in housetraining a puppy. To stay clean, dogs have an instinct not to have accidents where they sleep. When in a properly sized crate, a dog will do its best to not have accidents and they learn to hold it when in the house. It is best to keep your puppy in a crate at night until they have learned to not have accidents in the house. Use a crate too large, and the puppy may have accidents in the corner away from where they sleep. 

It is also good to practice taking off your dog’s collar before putting them in a crate unsupervised, as collars even a little too loose may get caught on their lower jaw and choke them. You should give your puppy an opportunity to use the bathroom right before putting them in a crate and as soon as you take them out of the crate. After you have had the puppy for a week, and they are eating well, then it is best to not have food or water bowls in their crate overnight, which can make 

messes and encourage toileting in the crate. If a puppy has an accident in the crate with their food and water dishes, then it may cause feces to get in their food or water and be ingested. Ingesting feces can cause problems such as gastroenteritis. However, leaving a treat or hard toy in the crate overnight to keep your puppy preoccupied before bed is usually fine. I don't recommend leaving soft toys with them overnight as they may be able to rip them apart and choke on the fabric or stuffing. If you’d like to keep water with your puppy overnight, then it is best to use a water bottle that attaches to the crate so that they cannot make a mess out of it. 

Crates are also good for your dog as they provide a safe space. Wild adult dogs, such as dingoes, coyotes, and wolves, will naturally find a den or safe area to sleep and hide. When the dam whelps the pups in the wild she sets up a den and keeps it clean until the pups are old enough to go outside on their own. She teaches them to only toilet outside and to keep the den clean. Domestic dogs will also naturally den. You will often see a dog sleeping under a table or desk or next to a piece of furniture if no other area is provided for them to den. By providing a denning area, ie a crate, you are giving your dog a safe space to be. They can retreat to this space when they are sleepy, want to relax, or are nervous. 

At minimum, it is best to crate your puppy overnight until they are completely housebroken.

Your puppy may whine when you crate them. They are used to a busy house, other dogs, and littermates, and thus they may feel lonely or simply may want to get out and play. It is important to train your dog to not do this. Do not take them out of the crate until they stop whining. You may take them out of the crate as soon as they stop whining. Soon, they will learn that whining does not get them out of the crate any faster, and the puppy will realise that they will always be let out of the crate according to their owner’s schedule in the morning. 

Crate training should all be done positively with no negative associations. When you first bring the puppy home from the breeder, have the crate ready and comfortable for the puppy. It is best to put a bed, blanket, or towel in the crate for them. I recommend a folded towel or blanket as they are easier to wash if the puppy has an accident in their crate, and because the puppy is less likely to chew on them than they are a bed with stuffing. It is always good to give your puppy a toy, treat, or chewie that they can have while in the crate so as not to get bored and begin whining, and also so that they have a positive feel-good experience with their crate. Crates should not be used as punishments but rather as holding areas and safe spaces for your dog.

At some point you will have to go to work or go out somewhere and can't take the puppy. Make sure the pup has been exercised and has pottied. It is helpful if he has played a bit and is tired. Take off his collar and remove any unsafe toys that may be in the crate, lure him into the crate with a treat or physically place the puppy into the crate gently. Close the door and leave the house without further ado. Do not talk to the puppy or try to comfort them; this may excite the puppy. It is best to let the puppy settle down and relax. You might have to explain to your neighbors that you are crate training your new puppy to keep them safe while you are away and so he will develop good potty habits. Explain that the puppy may whine for a little while after you leave. Sometimes, placing a blanket or towel over the crate can keep the puppy from whining because they will not be able to see any other animals or people in the home, which may excite them. In addition, being in a dark room may make them sleepy or relaxed.

If you are gone for long periods of time due to work and nobody else in the house is able to let them out, then it is best to use an above-floor pen or large crate instead of just a regular small crate. The puppy will need to have a place to toilet where they are confined, so use puppy pads or towels. Teach them to use puppy pads by rewarding them with praise or a treat whenever they toilet on one. However, puppies used to toileting in crates will have a hard time being housebroken. 

There are several other reasons that you may crate train your puppy:

-Flying via aeroplane

-Boarding 

-Car rides 

-Vet visits

Keeping the puppy/dog safe in the car is another reason to crate train. Nobody likes to think of what would happen if they were in a car accident. Car doors can fly open and the dog, if uncrated, stands a good chance of leaping out into traffic and getting hit by a car or running off because they are scared. Your dog is also less likely to survive a car accident if they are loose in the car. If you have your dog crated in the car when in an accident, then the dog may get banged around but the crate will most likely protect the dog from being hit, may help contain the dog in the car itself, and will keep him from being lost if the car doors fly open even if the crate is expelled from the car. If you are hurt in the accident the emergency services people are more likely keep your dog safe and contained if the dog is in a crate and they can easily transport the dog to a safe area.

DO'S & DON'TS

*Never crate a dog with a choke collar on. 

Dogs can choke themselves to death. It's probably a good idea to remove any collar while the dog is in the crate.

*Never crate a dog with a leash attached! Same reason. 

*Use safe toys only, nothing the dog or puppy can get apart and choke on while you're not there. Rawhide chewies are not good to leave unsupervised dogs with. Squeaky toys need to be monitored because the squeakers can be removed and swallowed and cause the pup to choke.

*Good toys that are safe: Kongs. These are made of hard rubber that is almost impossible to destroy. They come in many different sizes and it have an small opening on one end. Some people put a little peanut butter inside and that gives the pup/dog something do for awhile after you leave. Not a lot of peanut butter, just enough to keep them interested.

 All of our puppies are microchipped before they leave. There is a card included in the puppy pack with information on how to register the chip in your name. Please be sure and register the microchip into your name, and keep the contact information up to date, this is very important so if your puppy is lost or stolen and someone scans the chip they can contact you as soon as possible. 

If your dog goes missing, then it is urgent to contact neighbors, local facebook groups, and to call shelters and rescues in the area. Post about them and put up flyers as often as you can- if your puppy is stolen and resold by the thief then it may be possible that the person who buys them recognises them as a lost pet through your posts or flyers.

 Socialising your puppy will be an easy task if they live in your home with you. Socialising a puppy does not mean bringing them around lots of other dogs and people- actually, it means to show them new experiences so that way they are not scared of normal things as adults. Good things for your puppy to experience while young are the sounds of TV shows or music, cars driving and honking, dogs barking, vacuum cleaners, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, as well as the experience of car rides, and indoor and outdoor environments.

Do NOT take your puppy around unfamiliar dogs and do NOT set them on the floor/ground in public locations where there are often other dogs, such as dog parks, pet stores, or veterinarian offices. Your puppy is susceptible to life-threatening diseases before they are fully vaccinated. Avoiding unfamiliar dogs and busy public locations will prevent your dog from being in situations where they may pick up a disease. Even after being disinfected, the ground, objects, and unfamiliar people and dogs can still hold diseases. Some, such as Parvo Virus, can stay in the environment for an entire year. 

If you are worried about socialising your puppy after you get it, then I recommend letting your dog play with neighbors' or friends' and their dogs that you know are fully vaccinated. Closed yards, porches, and most areas where strange dogs do not frequent are also great places to let your puppy enjoy the outdoors. Do not be hesitant to take them on car rides if you want to familiarise them with the vehicle- just do not put them on the ground or let strangers pet them whenever you bring them to public locations. When visiting the vet, always use a crate.